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Who is Mikimoto?

When thinking of an Akoya cultured pearl necklace, pearl admirers know that Mikimoto Kokichi is widely considered the father of modern pearl jewelry. Born in Mie prefecture, Japan, to an udon noodle shop owner, Mikimoto had humble beginnings. It is thought that while Mikimoto was working as a teenager selling vegetables to help support his family, he first noticed pearls as divers would unload their treasures by the docks.

In 1888, to address the overharvesting of the pearl producing oysters near his home, Mikimoto and his wife, Ume, began in earnest trying to cultivate pearls. After many setbacks, Mikimoto was able to create a hemispherical, cultured pearl in 1893. Three years later, he introduced the half spherical pearls at an exposition in Norway. However, it was not until 1916 and receiving a patent that Mikimoto was able to produce round pearls. To further expand, he later purchased the rights to the Mise-Niskikawa method of producing round pearls, which had been a competing technique introduced around 1907.

However, probably his most lasting impact on the modern cultured pearl, is perfecting the technique of using round nuclei cut from American freshwater mussels. This method has been an industry production standard for cultured pearl necklaces for the past 90 years.

What to Know When Buying

Mikimoto once was quoted as saying his dream was "to adorn the necks of all the women of the world with pearls." He has come close. With inspiration drawn from his classic Akoya cultured pearl necklace, pearl producers have replicated it many times over around the world. Although a Mikimoto pearl strand can be purchased in varying sizes and qualities, Mikimoto pearl strands are known to have good luster and thick nacre. Additional characteristics include:

Lengths

Choker (16 inches) which emphasizes the neckline
Princess (18 inches) is the most common length of necklace, which hangs just below the collar bone
Matinee (22 - 24 inches) is designed to give a more dramatic effect, hanging just over a blouse or dress with a clean line top
Opera (30 - 32 inches) gives a more dramatic effect than the Matinee. This length also lends itself to be worn as a double strand by simply crossing it back over the neck. This length is generally reserved for more formal occasions

Grading

Conceivably, each jeweler can have their own grading scale, e.g. A - D, AAAAA to A, or triple A to A. However, the Mikimoto grading scale is characterized as follows:

Triple A: superior, mirror-like luster and blemish free
AA: excellent luster and only slight blemishes
A+: very good luster and only slight blemishes
A: good luster and only slight blemishes

NOTE: Sub-grades are A1, A+1, AA1 and AAA1, where "1" means the surface has slight blemishes

Avoiding Mikimoto Imitations

Since Mikimoto pearl strands have become so popular, it is unfortunate that imitations of their Akoya cultured pearl necklace do exist. However, there are a few things that you can do to avoid imitations:

Look for the Mikimoto trademark, an oyster shell with an "M" inside, found on the back of the clasp. This trademark authenticates the piece. If the clasp is missing, it might not be possible to authenticate the pearl strand as Mikimoto

Alternatives

As noted earlier, the classic Mikimoto Akoya cultured pearl strand has been a standard. However, other places in Japan and China are also able to produce high-quality, Akoya cultured pearl strands. While there is a deserved, perceived quality in Mikimoto Akoya cultured pearl strands, non-Mikimoto branded cultured pearl necklaces of high quality can be purchased for a fraction of the cost.

If you are considering purchasing non-Mikimoto pearls, familiarize yourself with what the Gemological Institute of America has set forth for valuing pearls:

Size: larger is desirable
Shape: round
Color: is a personal preference, most common though is white or rose
Luster: higher is better
Surface quality: little to no blemishes
Nacre quality: thickness is a premium
Matching: uniformity of the pearls is desirable

Angie Yarbrough is the President of White Rock Pearl Co.

White Rock Pearl Co. is an online cultured pearl necklace, pearl jewelry boutique, with pearl necklaces for every occasion. For other articles and helpful tips, please visit us online or call us at 1.888.841.2470

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